Single Breasted vs Double Breasted Overcoat: Which Should You Buy?
Updated October 2026. Written by The Platinum Tailor, a family tailoring business making wool overcoats since 2012.
Quick answer
A single breasted overcoat is more versatile: you can wear it open or closed, over a suit or a hoodie, five days a week. A double breasted overcoat is warmer, more formal and makes a stronger statement, but it needs to be worn buttoned. If it is your first proper coat, buy single breasted. If you already own one, or want more warmth and presence, buy double breasted.
Side by side
| Single breasted | Double breasted | |
|---|---|---|
| Front | One column of buttons | Two columns, overlapping panels |
| Lapels | Usually notch | Usually peak |
| Warmth | Warm | Warmer, two layers across the chest |
| Worn open? | Yes, looks clean | Best kept buttoned |
| Formality | Casual to formal | Smart to formal |
| Dressing down | Easy | Works with knitwear, harder with sportswear |
How they wear in real life
A single breasted overcoat goes over almost anything: suit, blazer, knitwear, t-shirt, hoodie. Open, it drapes cleanly. Buttoned, it is smart and contained. It looks right on the school run on Tuesday and at a wedding on Saturday.
A double breasted overcoat asks more of you. It needs to be fastened when you are standing, because open, the overlapping panels flap apart. It is superb over a suit, a shirt and tie or a roll-neck, and works with a chunky knit and boots. Over a hoodie it can look forced. Our guide to how to wear a double breasted overcoat covers buttoning and outfits.
Walking a lot? A double breasted coat worn buttoned feels a little more held across the chest, and a long one can brush your legs mid stride. In the right size it is not restrictive: you should be able to reach forward and take a full stride with it fastened. If most of your wearing is walking across town, a single breasted coat worn open is the easier choice.
Which suits your build?
- Tall and slim: both work. Double breasted adds welcome width across the chest.
- Broad or muscular: single breasted is usually more flattering. The overlap adds bulk.
- Shorter: single breasted lengthens more. A double breasted with peak lapels can still work if kept buttoned and streamlined.
- Fuller through the middle: single breasted is more forgiving.
Occasion by occasion
| Situation | Single breasted | Double breasted |
|---|---|---|
| Daily commute, office | Perfect | Excellent, a little more formal |
| Weekend, casual | Perfect | Good with knitwear and boots |
| Black tie | Acceptable | Perfect |
| Wedding | Perfect | Perfect |
| Funeral | Perfect | Excellent |
| Over a hoodie | Perfect | Can look forced |
| Very cold days | Good with layers | Best |
A little history
Single breasted overcoats are the everyday civilian form. The covert coat, with its velvet collar, was the English country coat, and the single breasted Chesterfield town coat dates from the nineteenth century. They were made to be worn daily, over everything, which is why the cut still feels universal.
Double breasted overcoats have military and formal roots: officers' coats, the greatcoat, the Ulster, the polo coat. Built for presence and warmth in serious cold, they still carry that feeling. Read more in what is a greatcoat.
Which one first?
For a first proper overcoat, single breasted almost every time. It does more and asks less. Most men who own one good coat eventually want a second, and they usually choose the opposite cut. If you are sure you want something bolder from the start, a double breasted can absolutely be your first. Just know it is a more committed look.
Two questions to decide: will this be a working coat for commuting, office and weekends (single breasted) or an occasion coat for dinners and events (double breasted)? And do you want the coat to blend into your wardrobe (single) or lead the outfit (double)?
Our coats in both cuts
| Coat | Cut and details | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Covert Overcoat | Single breasted, concealed placket, velvet collar, 44" | £150 |
| Long Overcoat | Single breasted, three buttons, notch lapels, 46" | £150 |
| Bond Overcoat | Single breasted, slimmer modern cut, 44" | £150 |
| Camel Hidden Button Overcoat | Single breasted, concealed placket, 46" | £140 |
| Double Breasted Long Overcoat | Six buttons, peak lapels, black or red lining, 46" | £150 |
| Polo Coat | Double breasted, half belt, turn-up cuffs, 46" | £160 |
| Greatcoat | Double breasted, broad shoulders and lapels, 46" | £160 |
All 70% wool, 25% polyester, 5% cashmere, fully lined in satin. Free tracked UK delivery and 30 day returns.
Frequently asked questions
Is single or double breasted better for an overcoat?
Single breasted is more versatile and better as a first coat. Double breasted is warmer and more formal. Neither is better overall. They suit different uses.
Is a double breasted overcoat warmer?
Yes. The overlapping front gives two layers of cloth across your chest and usually closes higher at the neck.
Can you wear a double breasted overcoat open?
It is best worn buttoned. Open, the front panels flap and the coat looks too big. If you like to wear coats open, choose single breasted.
Is a double breasted overcoat more formal?
Yes, slightly. Peak lapels and the overlapping front read as more formal. It is ideal for black tie, weddings and formal city wear.
Which overcoat should I buy first?
Single breasted for most people, because it works with more of your wardrobe and can be worn open or closed.
Do double breasted coats feel more restrictive than single breasted for walking?
A little. You wear a double breasted coat buttoned, so it holds you more across the chest. In the right size it is perfectly comfortable for walking. If you walk a lot and like your coat open, single breasted is the more relaxed choice.
Single and double breasted overcoats in wool and cashmere from £140.
Single Breasted → Double Breasted →