Wool vs Cashmere Overcoat: Which Is Warmer and Is Cashmere Worth It?

Published October 2026. Written by The Platinum Tailor, a family tailoring business making wool overcoats since 2012.

Wool vs cashmere at a glance

Why cashmere feels so different

Cashmere comes from the fine, downy undercoat that cashmere goats grow to survive cold mountain winters. It is combed or shed out each spring, and a single goat produces only a small amount each year. Ballantynes' fibre guide puts it at roughly 150 to 200 grams, barely enough for half a jumper. That scarcity is why it costs so much.

The fibres are also extremely fine, typically 14 to 19 microns across, compared with around 17 to 24 microns for merino and much coarser for standard sheep's wool. Finer fibres feel softer because they bend instead of prickling your skin, and they trap more still air for the same weight, which is why a thin cashmere layer can feel as warm as a thicker wool one.

You will see claims online that cashmere is "eight times warmer" than wool. That number gets repeated a lot but is not well supported. In a coat, warmth depends just as much on how heavy and dense the cloth is, the lining and the cut. A heavy wool overcoat can easily be warmer than a light cashmere one.

Why wool is still the workhorse

Wool fibres are longer, stronger and springier. A woven wool cloth bounces back when crushed, keeps a crisp shape through the shoulders and lapels, and stands up to bag straps, car seats and being thrown over a chair. It sheds light rain and keeps insulating when damp. Those are exactly the things an everyday overcoat needs to do, which is why most of the world's best overcoats are wool or mostly wool. Read more in are wool overcoats warm.

What the blend percentages actually mean

Be honest with yourself about what a small percentage does. A coat with 5% cashmere will feel softer, especially where it touches your neck and wrists, but it is still essentially a wool coat. That is not a bad thing. It is the balance most people want in an everyday coat. Coats that put "cashmere" in big letters on the label with only 2 or 3% in the cloth are leaning on the name.

Is a cashmere coat worth it?

It can be worth it if you want the softest possible coat, you mostly travel by car or taxi rather than on crowded trains, you will look after it carefully, and the price will not stop you wearing it.

Wool or a wool and cashmere blend is the better buy if you will wear the coat every day, commute on public transport, carry a bag on your shoulder, get caught in the rain, or want the coat to look sharp for many years with little fuss.

For most people, a wool coat with some cashmere in it is the sweet spot: wool's toughness with a softer feel.

How to judge cashmere quality

• Check the exact percentage on the care label, not the product name.
• Feel it. Good cashmere is soft but should not feel slippery or limp. Very cheap "cashmere" can be made from shorter, coarser fibres that pill fast.
• Be suspicious of very low prices for 100% cashmere coats. The raw fibre is expensive.
• Look at the weave. A dense, even cloth wears better than a loose, fluffy one.

Caring for wool and cashmere coats

Both need the same basics: brush after wearing, hang on a broad hanger, let them rest between wears and dry clean sparingly. Cashmere needs extra gentleness. Use a softer brush, keep it away from rough bag straps and Velcro, and avoid wearing it in heavy rain. Our wool overcoat care guide has the full routine.

What our coats are made of

All of our wool overcoats are 70% wool, 25% polyester and 5% cashmere. The wool does the insulating and gives the coat its structure. The cashmere softens the feel at the collar and cuffs. The polyester helps the coat keep its shape and keeps the price at £140 to £160. We are open about that blend because we think it is the right balance for a coat that gets worn every day. If you want to know more about the polyester part, read what percentage wool should a coat be.

Frequently asked questions

Is cashmere warmer than wool?

Weight for weight, yes, because its finer fibres trap more air. But in a coat, cloth weight, density, lining and cut matter just as much. A heavy wool overcoat can be warmer than a light cashmere one.

Is a cashmere overcoat worth the money?

If you want maximum softness and will treat it gently, it can be. For a coat you will wear every day on public transport and in the rain, wool or a wool and cashmere blend is more practical and much better value.

What does 5% cashmere in a coat do?

It makes the cloth feel softer, especially at the collar and cuffs, and adds a little warmth. The coat is still essentially a wool coat, with wool's durability and structure.

Does cashmere pill?

Yes, more than wool, especially where it rubs against bags or seatbelts. Better quality cashmere made from longer fibres pills less. A cashmere comb removes pills safely.

Is a wool and cashmere blend good quality?

A blend where wool is the main fibre and cashmere adds softness is a very good choice for an overcoat. It combines wool's toughness and shape with a softer, more luxurious feel.

Can a cashmere coat get wet?

Light rain will not ruin it, but cashmere is best kept dry. If it gets wet, blot it, hang it on a broad hanger away from heat and let it dry naturally.