The Best Overcoat for Broad Shoulders and a Bigger Build

Updated October 2026. Written by The Platinum Tailor, a family tailoring business making wool overcoats since 2012.

Shoulders are the most common fit complaint with any overcoat, and they matter most for men with an athletic or bigger frame. Rugby players, gym regulars, men with a broad back or a fuller middle often find that a coat that fits the chest pulls across the shoulder blades, or one that fits the shoulders swamps everything else. The good news is that the right style and the right size make a big build look powerful and well dressed in a long coat.

Why the shoulders come first

A tailor can shorten sleeves, take in the waist and shorten the hem fairly easily. The shoulder is built into the structure of the coat and is very hard to change. So if you are choosing between two sizes, pick the one where the shoulders fit and have the rest adjusted if needed.

How to find your size with broad shoulders

1. Measure your chest around the fullest part, under the arms, over a shirt.
2. Find your chest size on the Body Chest row of our size guide.
3. Check the shoulder width. Lay a coat or jacket that fits your shoulders well flat, measure straight across the back from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, and compare it with the Shoulder Width row.
4. If the shoulder measurement points to a bigger size, take the bigger size. A slightly roomy body can be taken in. A tight shoulder cannot be fixed.

Not every style comes in every size, so check the size options on each product page. Our Long Overcoat and our Covert Overcoat with red lining both run up to UK 50.

The most flattering styles for a bigger build

Single breasted, three button, notch lapels

A single breasted front creates a clean vertical line down the centre of the body, which lengthens and slims. Notch lapels are quieter than peak lapels and do not add width to the chest. Our Men's Black Long Overcoat is exactly this: three buttons, notch lapels, a structured but not exaggerated shoulder and a regular cut with room for a jumper. It is the one we recommend first for broad and bigger men. It also comes with a red satin lining.

A concealed button front

Hiding the buttons removes visual clutter from the front of the coat and makes the vertical line even cleaner. The Covert Overcoat with Black Lining has a concealed front and a velvet collar that draws the eye up to the face.

Length

A long coat is a bigger man's friend. A coat that ends at or below the knee creates one long, unbroken line from shoulder to hem, and makes you look taller and leaner. A short coat cuts the body in half at its widest point. Both coats above are 44 to 46 inches long. See how long should an overcoat be.

One dark colour

Black, worn head to toe in tone, is the most slimming colour there is. A black coat over dark trousers keeps the eye moving up and down rather than across.

What about double breasted coats?

Double breasted coats can look excellent on a big man, as long as the fit is right. The overlapping front adds width across the chest, so they suit men with a strong chest and a flatter stomach best. They must be worn buttoned, and they must close without pulling. If you carry weight around the middle, a single breasted coat is more forgiving.

The Greatcoat has the broadest, most padded shoulders in our range. It adds width, which is perfect for a slim man but can make an already broad man look very wide. The slim cut Bond Overcoat has a close body and suits leaner builds better. For more on the different fronts, read single breasted vs double breasted overcoat.

Common mistakes

• Buying a size too small to look slimmer. A tight coat makes a big man look bigger. A coat that skims the body without pulling is far more flattering.
• Going too big. A coat that hangs off the shoulders looks sloppy. The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder.
• Short coats. A hip length coat cuts the body at its widest point.
• Bulky pockets. A full hip pocket adds width exactly where you do not want it. Use the inside pockets, which every one of our coats has.

Frequently asked questions

What overcoat is best for broad shoulders?

A long, single breasted coat with notch lapels and a natural, not heavily padded, shoulder. Choose the size by your shoulders first.

Should I size up for broad shoulders?

If the shoulder width in your chest size is narrower than a coat that fits you well, yes. A roomy body can be taken in, a tight shoulder cannot be let out.

Do double breasted coats suit bigger men?

They can, if the coat closes without pulling and you have a strong chest. If you carry weight around the middle, single breasted is more forgiving.

What length coat is most flattering for a big build?

At or below the knee. A long coat creates an unbroken vertical line that makes you look taller and leaner.

What is the biggest size you make?

Our Men's Long Overcoat and Covert Overcoat with red lining run up to UK 50, which fits a 50 inch chest. Check each product page for the sizes available in that style.