How to Wear a Double Breasted Overcoat: Buttons, Outfits and Mistakes to Avoid
Updated October 2026. Written by The Platinum Tailor, a family tailoring business making wool overcoats since 2012.
Quick answer
Wear a double breasted overcoat buttoned. On a six button coat, fasten the middle button, and the top one too in cold weather, but leave the bottom row open. Fasten the inside button first so the front sits flat. Keep what is underneath simple: a dark suit, a roll-neck or a crew neck knit. Double breasted coats look their best closed and are warmer than single breasted ones because the front panels overlap.
How to button a double breasted overcoat
Most double breasted overcoats have six buttons in two columns of three. Only one column actually fastens. The other is decorative. Here is the order:
- Fasten the inside button first. There is usually a button on the inside of the coat that holds the under panel in place. Do it up first and the outside will sit flat.
- Fasten the middle button. This is the one that should always be done up.
- Fasten the top button in cold or wind. On many coats it closes high on the chest and keeps the warmth in.
- Leave the bottom button open. It lets the coat move when you walk and stops it pulling across the hips.
On a double breasted coat with peak lapels that roll to the middle button, fastening the top button can flatten the lapel. In that case, middle only is fine.
Should you ever wear it open?
Rarely. A double breasted coat is cut with a lot of fabric in the front so that it overlaps when closed. Open, those front panels hang wide and flap, and the coat looks too big for you. If you want a coat you can wear open most of the time, a single breasted coat is the better choice. Our single vs double breasted guide covers that decision.
The exception is indoors for a few minutes, or over a dinner suit when you want to show the outfit underneath. Otherwise, button up.
Five outfits that work
| Occasion | Under the coat | Shoes |
|---|---|---|
| Office | Navy or charcoal suit, white shirt, dark tie | Black or dark brown oxfords |
| Winter wedding | Morning dress or a dark lounge suit | Black oxfords |
| Evening out | Black merino roll-neck, grey flannel trousers | Black chelsea boots |
| Weekend | Chunky crew neck knit, dark jeans | Leather boots or clean white trainers |
| Funeral | Black or charcoal suit, white shirt, black tie | Polished black oxfords |
For more casual combinations, see how to wear an overcoat casually. For occasions, see our guides to winter weddings and funerals.
Scarves and double breasted coats
Because a double breasted coat closes higher on the chest, a scarf works best tucked inside rather than hanging loose over the front. A single loop around the neck with the ends tucked into the coat looks neat and keeps the wind out. Keep the scarf a plain colour so it does not fight with the lapels.
Mistakes to avoid
- Wearing it open all day. The front panels flap and the coat looks oversized.
- Doing up every button. The bottom button should stay open so you can walk.
- Forgetting the inside button. Without it the front can twist and sag.
- Sizing down too far. A double breasted coat needs room across the chest for the overlap. If it pulls into an X shape around the buttons, it is too small. Check our overcoat size guide.
- Bulky layers underneath. One good knit beats two thick ones and keeps the front flat.
Our double breasted overcoats
| Coat | Character | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Black Double Breasted Long Overcoat | Peak lapels, six buttons, black satin lining, 46 inches | £150 |
| Black Double Breasted Overcoat, Red Lining | Same cut with a red satin lining | £150 |
| Black Polo Coat | Half back belt, turn-up cuffs, 46 inches | £160 |
| Black Greatcoat | Broadest shoulders and lapels in the range | £160 |
All 70% wool, 25% polyester, 5% cashmere, fully lined, with free tracked UK delivery and 30 day returns.
Frequently asked questions
Which buttons do you fasten on a double breasted overcoat?
Fasten the inside button first, then the middle button. In cold weather fasten the top button too. Leave the bottom button open so you can move freely.
Can you wear a double breasted overcoat open?
It is best worn closed. Open, the overlapping front panels hang loose and make the coat look too big. If you prefer to wear a coat open, choose single breasted.
Can you wear a double breasted overcoat casually?
Yes. Over a chunky knit and dark jeans with boots or clean white trainers it looks relaxed and deliberate. Keep it buttoned and keep the rest of the outfit simple.
Are double breasted coats in style in 2026?
Yes. Double breasted coats have been strong for several seasons and remain one of the key overcoat styles for winter 2026/27, alongside polo coats.
Does a double breasted coat suit shorter men?
It can. Keep it buttoned, choose a peak lapel to draw the eye up, and keep trousers slim and shoes streamlined. Avoid bulky scarves and layers.
Double breasted overcoats in wool and cashmere from £150. Free tracked UK delivery.
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