The Velvet Collar Overcoat: History, Style and How to Wear It

Updated October 2026. Written by The Platinum Tailor, a family tailoring business making wool overcoats since 2012.

Where the velvet collar comes from

The Chesterfield

The velvet collar is most closely linked to the Chesterfield coat, a straight, single breasted town coat named after a nineteenth century Earl of Chesterfield. It was the formal overcoat of Victorian and Edwardian gentlemen, and a dark velvet collar became one of its defining details.

There is a popular story that velvet collars started as a quiet sign of sympathy for the French aristocracy after the Revolution. It is a good story, but there is little hard evidence for it, so treat it as tailoring folklore. The practical explanation is simpler: velvet looked rich, gave a contrast of texture against plain wool, and was softer against the neck than a stiff wool collar.

The covert coat

The covert coat started life as an English riding and hunting coat, cut from a tough twill called covert cloth. As it moved from the country to the city it picked up the velvet collar and a concealed button front, and by the twentieth century it had become the standard overcoat of the City of London. Read more in what is a covert overcoat.

Teddy Boys, mods and the Crombie

In the 1950s the Teddy Boys borrowed Edwardian tailoring, including long drape coats with velvet collars, and made it rebellious. In the 1960s and 70s, mods and skinheads wore knee length dark wool coats with velvet collars, often called Crombies after the cloth they were made from. That is part of why the velvet collar coat still has an edge to it as well as a formality. Our guide to Crombie vs overcoat explains the name.

Peaky Blinders

More recently, Peaky Blinders put the long black velvet collar overcoat back on the high street. Searches for the look have never really gone away. See the Peaky Blinders coat: how to get the look.

What makes a velvet collar coat different

How to wear a velvet collar overcoat

• Over a dark suit. The classic. Navy or charcoal suit, white shirt, dark tie. This is the City look the coat was made for.
• With a roll-neck. A black or navy merino roll-neck under a velvet collar coat looks sharp without a tie, and the velvet frames the knit nicely.
• With dark jeans and boots. Keep everything else dark and simple and the coat lifts the whole outfit. Avoid ripped denim and bright trainers here.
• At funerals. A black velvet collar coat is one of the most appropriate coats for a funeral. See what to wear to a funeral.
• At winter weddings and evening events. It sits well over a dinner suit or morning dress.

Looking after the velvet

Velvet has a raised pile, so it needs slightly different care from the wool body of the coat.

• Brush gently with a soft brush in the direction of the pile to lift dust and lint.
• Steam, do not iron. Holding a steamer a little away from the collar lifts crushed pile. Pressing velvet with an iron flattens it for good.
• Hang the coat on a broad hanger so the collar sits naturally and is not crushed against other coats.
• Watch scarves with rough textures. Very coarse knits can rub the pile over time. Silk, cashmere and fine merino are kinder.
• Dry clean only, and tell the cleaner the collar is velvet.

More on the rest of the coat in our wool overcoat care guide.

Our velvet collar coats

All are 70% wool, 25% polyester and 5% cashmere with a velvet cotton collar and a full satin lining.

Frequently asked questions

Why do some overcoats have velvet collars?

It is a tradition from nineteenth century formal coats like the Chesterfield. Velvet added a rich contrast of texture against the wool and was softer against the neck. It is now the signature of the covert coat and the classic British City overcoat.

What is a coat with a velvet collar called?

Usually a covert coat or a Chesterfield. In Britain, a dark knee length coat with a velvet collar is also often called a Crombie.

Is a velvet collar coat formal?

It sits on the smart to formal side. It is ideal over a suit, at funerals, weddings and evening events, and it also works with a roll-neck or dark jeans for smart casual.

Can I wear a velvet collar coat to a funeral?

Yes. A black wool coat with a black velvet collar is one of the most appropriate coats you can wear to a funeral.

How do I clean a velvet collar?

Brush it gently with a soft brush in the direction of the pile and use a steamer held a little away to lift crushed areas. Never iron velvet directly. For a full clean, use a dry cleaner and point out the velvet.