Greatcoat vs Chesterfield vs Covert vs Crombie: Which Coat to Buy?

Updated October 2026. Written by The Platinum Tailor, a family tailoring business making wool overcoats since 2012.

These three names come up again and again when people shop for a long wool overcoat, along with a fourth, the Crombie, and they are often used loosely, or interchangeably. They are different coats, with different histories, and each suits a different man and a different wardrobe. Here is how to tell them apart and which one to buy.

Greatcoat vs Chesterfield vs covert at a glance

The greatcoat: built for presence

The greatcoat began as a military coat, made to be worn over a uniform through a winter campaign. That heritage is still in every line: a double breasted front, broad peak lapels, structured padded shoulders and a long, heavy cut. It is the coat that fills a doorway.

Our Men's Black Greatcoat is 46 inches long, with a six button double breasted front, broad peak lapels and the broadest shoulders in our range. It is fully lined in black satin, black on black throughout.

• Choose it if: you want a coat with real authority, you are tall or slim and want more width in the chest, or you need a coat for a wedding, a ceremony or black tie.
• Think twice if: you already have very broad shoulders and want a quieter silhouette. A single breasted coat will suit you better. See our guide to overcoats for broad shoulders.

Read the full story in what is a greatcoat.

The Chesterfield: the classic town coat

The Chesterfield is the original gentleman's overcoat, named after a 19th century Earl of Chesterfield. It was designed as a smarter, more streamlined alternative to the heavily waisted frock coats of the time. A straight cut with no waist seam, single breasted, notch lapels, and no fuss. Some Chesterfields have a velvet collar, which is where it overlaps with the covert.

It is the most versatile of the three by a distance. It goes over a suit, over a jumper and jeans, to the office, to a funeral and to dinner. If you want one coat for everything, it is a Chesterfield cut.

Our Chesterfield style coats:

• Men's Black Long Overcoat: notch lapels, three button front, 46 inches, black satin lining. Our most versatile coat.
• Men's Long Overcoat with Red Lining: the same coat with a red satin lining.
• Men's Bond Overcoat: a slimmer, more modern Chesterfield cut at 44 inches, with a closer body for a long, lean line.
• Women's Long Overcoat: a three button single breasted coat with a belt to define the waist.

The covert coat: character and heritage

The covert coat started life in the English countryside as a riding and shooting coat, named after the covert cloth it was made from. Over time it moved into town and became a City staple, keeping its country details: a fly front that hides the buttons, a ticket pocket and, very often, a velvet collar.

It is the coat for the man who wants a Chesterfield's versatility with more personality. The velvet collar adds texture at the neckline and the concealed front keeps the line completely clean.

• Men's Covert Overcoat: black velvet collar, concealed three button front, three flap hip pockets including a ticket pocket, red satin lining, 44 inches. Our most reviewed style.
• Men's Covert Overcoat with Black Lining: the quieter, all black version, ideal for funerals and the office.
• Women's Covert Overcoat: velvet collar and concealed front in a structured feminine cut, UK 10 to 18.

More detail in what is a covert overcoat and the velvet collar overcoat.

Where does the Crombie coat fit in?

In Britain, "Crombie" is often used as the name for a style of coat, after the Scottish mill and brand that made it famous. When people say a Crombie, they usually mean a knee length, single breasted wool overcoat in a dark colour, very often with a velvet collar. In other words, a Chesterfield or a covert by another name.

The Crombie style has deep roots in British street style too, worn smart over a suit or sharp over jeans and boots, and it is the look most people picture when they think of a classic British overcoat. If that is the coat you are after, these are the closest matches in our range:

• Men's Covert Overcoat: the classic Crombie style, with a black velvet collar, concealed front and red lining.
• Men's Covert Overcoat with Black Lining: the same coat in all black.
• Men's Black Long Overcoat: the plainer Crombie style, without the velvet collar.
• Women's Covert Overcoat: a women's Crombie style coat with a velvet collar, UK 10 to 18.

For how the Crombie compares with a topcoat and a peacoat, read overcoat vs topcoat vs Crombie vs peacoat.

Which one should you buy?

The covert is the coat most associated with the Peaky Blinders look. Read the Peaky Blinders coat: how to get the look.

What about the double breasted overcoat and the polo coat?

Two more styles sit close to these three. The Double Breasted Overcoat has peak lapels and a six button front like the greatcoat, with a slightly less military, softer presence. It is the natural choice if the greatcoat feels like too much coat. The Polo Coat is double breasted with a half back belt and turn up cuffs, a sporting heritage piece that works brilliantly with casual clothes and knitwear. For the difference between single and double breasted fronts, read single breasted vs double breasted overcoat.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a greatcoat and a Chesterfield?

A greatcoat is double breasted, with broad peak lapels and structured shoulders from its military origins. A Chesterfield is single breasted with notch lapels and a cleaner, straighter line.

What is the difference between a covert coat and a Chesterfield?

Both are single breasted. A covert usually adds a velvet collar, a concealed button front and a ticket pocket, from its country riding coat roots. A Chesterfield is plainer.

Which is the most formal overcoat?

The greatcoat, followed closely by a black double breasted overcoat.

Which overcoat is the most versatile?

A black single breasted Chesterfield style coat. It works over suits, knitwear and casual clothes alike.

What is a Crombie coat?

In Britain, "Crombie" is a common name for a knee length, single breasted wool overcoat, often with a velvet collar, after the mill and brand that made the style famous. It is very close to a Chesterfield or covert coat.

Does a Chesterfield have a velvet collar?

Some do and some do not. The velvet collar is a traditional option on a Chesterfield and a very common feature on a covert coat.